The Road to Morocco

The Road to Morocco

My move to Morocco morphed from surreal to solid a couple of weeks ago when a plane ticket to Casablanca arrived. On August 18th I leave Nashville for New York, then Africa. When I land on August 19th the school’s driver will take me from the airport to my new home, an apartment in the Gueliz suburb of Marrakech.
Much has happened since January 28 when I flew to Boston for the SEARCH Associates international job fair and entitled my first moleskin journal (bought at the Charlotte airport), “The New Adventure Begins.”

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That winter day, as I had in my first travel journal ever– a spiral notebook my mother gave me when, as a fourth grader, I went on my first flight to see cousins in Atlanta– I knew I needed to record the journey. Something new brewed.

At nine I wrote of climbing on marshmallow clouds, splashing on Six Flags’ Zoom Flume, cheering for the Braves, and learning to like iced tea. Soaring solo, I felt very grown up and alive. Now I look forward to climbing the Atlas Mountains, splashing on white water rapids, riding a camel across the desert, and learning to like hot mint tea. Four decades later, I feel very young. And alive.

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Last January, I had no idea I’d be moving to Marrakech. In fact, I wasn’t sure the time was right to move anywhere. I’d signed up for the job fair last fall thinking I’d check out recruiting schools’ presentations and network so that when my son graduated from college in a couple of years, I’d be ready to make my move. But by Christmas I’d mentally shifted from fact-finding to job yearning. For months I’d open my eyes and reach for my phone to check daily emails announcing just-posted job openings. I’d researched almost thirty schools in fifteen countries, and felt ready to walk through whichever door swung open and proved right.  For me, “right” meant a place where I could learn, contribute, grow.  A move that was best for my family, future, finances, faith and freedom.

I have been happy in Nashville— great colleagues and amazing family and friends—but I’ve always wanted to try on the expat life.   For years I was set on Italy, but I became open to international schools from the Americas to the rest of Europe, from Malta to Morocco–the latter where a colleague had taught.  She taught French in my room last year during my planning period, and I loved her stories of living in Morocco and France. We became good friends.  Wednesday she leaves for Taiwan.  She understood my desire to teach abroad and became an inspiration and mentor in making it happen.

While boarding my connecting flight in North Carolina, I unknowingly hit the Kindle app on my phone. Open was a page I’d highlighted in The Alchemist, Paulo Coelho’s story of Santiago, the Spanish shepherd who sets off to realize a lifelong dream to see the pyramids. The passage glowing in fluorescent yellow read:

Looking around, he sought his sheep, and then realized he was in a new world. But instead of being saddened, he was happy. He no longer had to seek out food and water for the sheep; he could go in search of his treasure, instead. He had not a cent in his pocket, but he had faith. He had decided, the night before, that he would be as much an adventurer as the ones he had admired in books.

I identified with Santiago. As a mom it is hard to make this move, but I realize my son and daughter, 21 and 24, no longer need daily “tending.”  They have their own lives, are close and competent, and have always, ultimately, been in God’s hands, not mine.  As they first left home for college a few years ago, I will leave for school, too.   As a woman born a romantic, adventurer, teacher and writer passionate for travel and other cultures, I realize the time for a new story is now.

As I flew over NYC on my way to Cambridge, an English teacher who sees symbols everywhere, I saw the Statue of Liberty and felt freedom. Though I hadn’t interviewed for a new teaching position in years, though I’d been content as a high school department head and college adjunct instructor, a new challenge felt exciting, liberating. As I saw ice and snow on the sea below,

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I had no idea I’d land a job in a place where people ski in the Atlas mountains by day and cross the Sahara Desert—as Santiago did—by night.

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The fair was an adventure, partly because I’d never been to Boston and an old friend living there showed me where to get seafood from the fish market to Little Italy.  It was a lobster lover’s dream.  Before flying home I took a tram to Cambridge and spent Super Bowl Sunday at Harvard.


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The job fair initially provided opportunities in China, the Middle East, Madagascar, Central and South America. I returned to Nashville and as I did every year taught Robert Frost’s “The Road Not Taken,” a poem my seniors relate to in making their college decisions. This spring as graduation neared, I, too, had a big decision to make. Choosing between two (or more) equally good paths—each rendering a different but satisfying life– is confusing. I considered three job offers—one in Dubai, another in Bolivia, and the third in Morocco. The school in Dubai was near the gorgeous Persian Gulf beaches and iconic hotels, and the person who interviewed me was born in my home state of Kentucky.

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The school in Bolivia offered a community in South America (a place I love) and immersion in Spanish. The person who interviewed me Skyped from a welcoming farmhouse kitchen on a sunny Sunday morning. Growing up in rural Kentucky and longing for a more simple life, I could see myself happy in such a naturally beautiful country.

Each choice provided “the road less traveled,” and would have, no doubt, made in my life “all the difference.” In the end, I chose Morocco. Next I’ll tell you why.

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Native Son and Mom on a Mission

Native Son and Mom on a Mission

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Andrew, Stephen, and John

Teaching has brought amazing students into my life. And families. The Gentuso clan is one gang I’ll never forget. The three boys’ ACT scores were in triple digits while their wrestling pins racked up powerful points. I loved that they were avid readers, creative, interesting, and best of all, all heart. Knowing them has made my life richer.

Stephen, the eldest, was part of my AP English “Dream Team.” He was an incredible writer… articulate, thoughtful, and sensitive. In a word…perfect. Then came John– energetic, curious, fun. He was in my daughter’s class and became my son’s hero. He still coaches Cole in wrestling. John didn’t just think outside the box. Long before I met him, he’d scaled it, jumped over its side, and never looked back.

And now I teach Andrew, a high school junior, who I met as “Monkey” when he was in the seventh grade. He and Cole wrestled off to the side as his older brothers were at varsity practice. His first big paper for me is below. Be ready to be moved. The pictures were taken by their mom, Tammy, the lady behind the camera at every match…except when she’s in Africa as the official photographer for Hanna Project, a non-profit humanitarian and medical aid NGO.

I saw Tammy’s first photography exhibit when I taught Stephen. A freelance journalist, she describes herself as “a registered nurse by training, who traded in her stethoscope for a diaper bag more than twenty years ago; and then traded a worn-out diaper bag for a pro camera bag in 2005.” Her portfolio may be viewed here: http://www.gentusophotography.com.

Tammy and Paul are a cool couple. They lived in Africa as medical missionaries and now make hours at wrestling invitationals all the more fun. Tammy’s my go-to mom for advice on practical parenting with eternal impact. I’m sharing their story–Andrew’s through words and Tammy’s through pictures–because their mom/son team is a picture of loving others well by serving side-by-side.

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The New Responsibility

by Andrew Gentuso

The reek of rotting flesh and infection assailed my senses, smothering all else as the makeshift splint supporting the mutilated leg was taken away. The appendage was contorted and tattered, much as I imagine a motorcycle accident victim’s leg would look. But there aren’t many motorcycles, or roads for that matter, in the savannah of Northern Cote d’Ivoire, West Africa. The injury must have been a severe break at one point, but infection and a lack of medical attention had caused it to steadily worsen until the leg was well outside the limits of our small open-air clinic, which was nothing more than a few tackle boxes filled with first aid equipment. The owner of the mutilation was given oral antibiotics after my mother cleaned off most of the mud and maggot-ridden flesh. He was then directed to go to the closest hospital around, which was luckily only about a dozen miles away. Our surgeons there could hopefully be of more assistance.

Next in the line was a small baby being held by his mother. I hadn’t noticed at first, due to the general ruckus of an entire excited village being gathered in one place, but the child was wailing. It became apparent for what he was crying when the mother pointed to a short, puckered gash on his distended stomach. It was a part of a pattern of cuts around the baby’s naval like the rays of the sun. However, unlike its seven other companions which were now healing into keloids, this slash had ruptured. I cleaned the wound gently with betadine, applied bandages and gave the mother medicine to help with the malnutrition and parasites causing the swollen belly. She, like all the others receiving medicine, was given instructions on when and how to take the pills by one of our translators.

During the van ride back to the hospital compound I asked what the pattern of cuts on the child’s stomach were, although I thought I had a shrewd idea. As it turned out, the slices had been made in an attempt to alleviate the distension of the abdomen by providing an exit for evil spirits, the obvious culprits. This was apparently a common practice and one deeply rooted in the fetish worship practiced by the Lobi tribe. This is the tribe from which I obtained my name as a baby: Olo Dablo, which means “third-born son, white boy”. This is the name African children who I had never met would call out to me as I rode by in the back of a truck or walked past on some errand. It seems that the American boy born in their village was still famous almost ten years after he had left Doropo—the largest village in the region and the location of the small bush hospital my parents ran many years ago.

It was partly this love shown to me by the people of Doropo, whether through a cheerful greeting or a gift of a carved and painted wooden bird made by a man who was my parents’ friend of old, which brought me to the reality about the vast need in places where clean water and a quality education are precious commodities, and simple medical aid is in such high demand. Each face I had seen in these situations was a distinct individual, just as much a human being as I. These weren’t just villagers waiting for the privileged Americans to swoop in and save them; they are our brothers and sisters who fight everyday for their very survival, against starvation, disease and war. I have been impressed by the urgency of their plight. We, who have so much, need to remember those who have so little. And not just remember, but assist in every way possible. The thought that the people of Africa, South America, South Asia and other suffering places are our fellow human beings and deserve just as much as us the love and saving grace of the God who created us all equal should stir some emotions and produce some actions.

This trip to my birthplace during the school year of 2009 opened my eyes to the needs felt by so many outside the borders of what the average American teenager sees. It has given me a new standard by which to judge hardship and kindled within me a desire to serve my God through serving needy people. My throat may be sore, but I at least don’t have a bone tumor the size of a football extending from my mouth and breaking my jaws apart, as one of our patients did. You know, that’s the kind of perspective I mean. Now that I know the realities of life in other places, I am more responsible to do something about them. This is a responsibility that needs to be fulfilled through whatever path I may take and is one that will help shape the remainder of my life.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Technology and the Brave New Classroom

Most don’t realize that Memphis is home to more than one king. In Elvis’ hometown, education rules at a world “think tank” started ten years ago at the Lausanne Collegiate School. Now each summer administrators, technology personnel, and teachers from every continent collaborate at the Lausanne Laptop Institute to discuss how to best use technology in the classroom.

I just returned from my third Institute. The first year I was hooked from meeting teachers from International Schools. Teaching abroad has always been on my “one day” list since teaching English in Italy one summer. Last year I submitted a proposal and was invited to present at the European Laptop Institute, hosted by the American School of The Hague in The Netherlands. Due to 4 feet of water wiping out my school’s first floor the funding to get me to Amsterdam’s canals ran dry. This week I presented three different sessions where I used a Ning Network I created similar to the ones I use in my classes. It still takes a village to raise a child…and a community unbound by borders to educate him. Thanks to friends for contributing resources to help get this last Ning launched… Sherry, teacher in Ecuador whose students did book discussions with my students via Skype; Monica, teacher from Spain; Paulette, Italian-American chef/editor; Sally, childhood BFF who spent 20 years in Niger; Emily, world traveler who recently served in a Tanzanian orphanage; Omaira, an interpreter/ literature lover; Sheyla, Cuban-American television personality who gave tech help, recipes, and a retreat in her backyard.

If you’re into travel/global educational projects and cultural exchange, check it out or join and contribute. One new member who teaches in Turkey will combine his students with mine in Tennessee for a global book discussion this fall via Skype.

A founder of Wikipedia and other global gurus made it a fun three days for Geeks on Beale. I’m still told with a sigh I’m out there but I have a lot of buddies “off in another world” too. It sure beats being in the box.

The Ning:
Students Beyond Borders on the Wings of Ning


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Fellow DCA Road Warriors who survived the minibus ride with little to no AC and kept on smiling: Renee, Mimi, Tabitha, Mike