Food Archives - Page 2 of 4 - Southern Girl Gone Global

Pepe Nero Marrakech is a unique, luxury experience. Photo by Emily Salgado

Pepe Nero Marrakech is The Place to Celebrate

December 17, 2015April 25, 2023Cindy McCain

Updated on April 25, 2023

Pepe Nero Pool Marrakesh Morocco — Brimming Beauty at Pepe Nero Marrakesh, Morocco

When my niece, Emily, and nephew, Andres, said they’d be visiting me in Morocco for 48 hours, I wanted a perfect place to take them for dinner. I sought somewhere signature Moroccan — mysterious, exotic, and beautiful. A place that practices hospitality and serves a mix of traditional local and European delicious dishes. Pepe Nero Marrakech granted every desire and more.

Mysterious…The night began with the thrill of intrigue. Afraid I could never lead us through the medina, a medieval labyrinth of darkness, deserted streets, and closed shops at night, I was relieved that Chahid Essafa, truly a Customer Service Extraordinaire, said he’d send a guide to escort us. Excited, we waited in front of Café de France, mesmerized by the lanterns glowing across Jemaa el Fna square. Behind us, a man in a black suit appeared.

Pepe Nero escorts guests to the restaurant by request.

He serenely introduced himself, turned, and led the way, shielding us from errant motorcyclists as we wound around corners and down solemn streets. Only our shadows and those of a few feral cats stretched up the red clay walls as we silently walked under lamplights. Though our destination was less than ten minutes away, adrenaline flowed from the surreal setting and suspense of wondering behind which wall our journey would end.

And then Emily and Andres experienced what I love about this city. A desolate alleyway. A door swings open. Inside…paradise.

Pepe Nero Marrakesh — Pepe Nero is the former palace of Moroccan royalty.

Pepe Nero Marrakesh Morocco — Guests enjoy poolside dinner at Pepe Nero Marrakech.

U.S. guests visit expat aunt at Pepe Nero Marrakesh — Cindy McCain with Marrakesh guests Emily and Andres Salgado.

Pepe Nero Marrakesh offers Italian and Moroccan cuisine in a former Pasha's palace. — Pepe Nero Marrakesh offers Italian and Moroccan cuisine in a former Pasha’s palace.

Beautiful…Carrara marble, cedar ceilings, and Moorish fountains transport guests to another time. We ate by the Andalusian pool flanked by flaming torches from a James Bond dream set. Trees reached for the moon—gorgeous that night—as we sat under the stars. Bougainvillea draped from the second-story balcony.

Exotic… Pepe Nero Marrakech is the restaurant within Riyad Al Moussika, the former palace of “Lord of the Atlas,” Pasha of Marrakech from 1912-1956. According to BBC, Thami El Giaoui at the time of his death “was the most powerful man in Morocco and one of the wealthiest men in the world.” Guests can rent one of six luxury suites overlooking the two lavish courtyards. Breakfast is served on the terrace rooftop overlooking the Atlas mountains.

Haute cuisine...Guests can choose from two menus—one Moroccan, one Italian–prepared by Mr. Khalid Essafa Robazza, Cordon Bleu Chef and owner. We three went with Moroccan because When in Rome… (and Emily and Andres had just come from there). We feasted on salads and Harira Soup (a tradition), then roasted leg of lamb, lamb tagine, and Pastilla di Piccione (pigeon pie–a local delicacy). The waiters were attentive, kind, and patient as we toured the riad, Emily and I tag-teaming behind the camera.

Fresh orange juice welcome drinks at Pepe Nero — Welcomed with fresh orange drinks

Emily and Andres Salgado at Pepe Nero Marrakesh

Cindy McCain and Nephew Andres Salgado at Pepe Nero. Photo by Emily Salgado.

Cindy McCain Southern Girl Gone Global at Pepe Nero Marrakesh — Thrilled to be celebrating life with family at Pepe Nero

Meal at Pepe Nero Marrakesh — Our starters at Pepe Nero Marrakesh

Lamb Tagine at Pepe Nero Marrakesh — Lamb Tagine

Roasted Shoulder of Lamb at Pepe Nero Marrakesh — Roasted Shoulder of Lamb

Cinnamon-glazed Pastilla at Pepe Nero — Cinnamon-glazed Pastilla

Server pouring mint tea Moroccan style at Pepe Nero — Our excellent server pouring mint tea Moroccan style at Pepe Nero

The food was so delicious, the dining experience so exceptional and the wine list so tempting, I returned the following week with my friend, Jasna, to try one dish off the Italian menu–lasagna that was the best I’ve had anywhere– so I could save room for dessert. As a Kentucky girl, I chose the Bourbon Vanilla Crème Brûlée with the crunch-cream topping–my new favorite dessert in all of Morocco. Pepe Nero provides complimentary cake for birthday parties. It’s a five-star dining experience at affordable prices, and I’m already looking forward to the next celebration.

Best crème brulée of my life at Pepe Nero Marrakesh

Cordon Bleu Chef/Owner Khalid Essafa Robazza and Southern Girl Gone Global Cindy McCain at Pepe Nero — Pepe Nero Marrakesh Cordon Bleu Chef/Owner Khalid Essafa Robazza

Southern Girl Gone Global Cindy McCain with Pepe Nero Manager Manager Chahid Essafa — Gracious Manager Chahid Essafa

Southern Girl Gone Global Cindy McCain with Khalid, Member of Wonderful Waitstaff at Pepe Nero Marrakesh — Khalid, Member of Wonderful Waitstaff

In Marrakech Locals and Expats Gather at Kosybar

December 6, 2015February 15, 2021Cindy McCain

I spent a perfect Marrakesh afternoon recently with Brigitte, owner of Kosybar and Dar Beija, with Andrena, her longtime friend. Andrena and I were off from work for Moroccan Independence Day so we were thrilled to enjoy lunch in the sunshine. Later we walked it off through the newly refurbished Jewish Quarter to Brigitte’s beautiful boutique hotel.

Day or night the three-story restaurant is a gathering place. I’d been to Kosybar before, a favorite Happy Hour hangout of coworkers and other locals and expats. In a city where riad and restaurant rooftops are so close you can hopscotch your way across the skyline, Kosybar’s sunset view is one of the most unique places in town to sip and see the sky change colors. Perched in their gigantic nests just above patrons, the famous storks of El Badi Palace, began in 1578 by Arab Saadian Sultan Ahmad al-Mansur, keep watch over dusk. The tourist attraction is home now of the Marrakech Folklore Festival.

First trip to Kosybar in Spring 2015 with Annie and Lexi — First trip to Kosybar last spring with Annie and Lexi

Through the gate below Kosybar is the El Badi Palace (below)

As we spoke over lunch, Spike, a talented and gregarious Canadian singer who fills the dance floor downstairs Thursday-Sunday nights, stopped by the table to say hi. Three other expat guests—one who had returned home but like so many others had been drawn back by the “Marrakesh spell”–did the same, giving Brigitte–a Moroccan kisses on both cheeks. She has a sensitive, sweet spirit that friends and regular customers find soothing.

Our lunch prepared by Japanese Chef Nao Tamaki was delicious–a fusion of Asian, French, and Moroccan fare. Though not usually a dessert person, I LOVED the apple turnovers. In addition to lunch, the restaurant serves a tapas menu afternoons and a dinner menu evenings. They have a full range of cocktails including a good selection of wines. The mojitos are the best I’ve tasted in town.

It was a poignant day. Sad and shocked by the Paris bombing, Brigitte talked of the tragedy and her daughter’s decision that they keep their plans for an upcoming trip to the City of Lights. Brigitte said though it is safe in Morocco it had been quiet the last few days as it is every time such a tragedy happens. She agreed with her daughter that we can’t be ruled by fear and they should go to Paris as planned rather than cancel.

Despite disturbing world events, we so enjoyed the day we’d been given. As moms born on three continents (Andrena is Scottish), we spoke of our children. Brigitte shared some of her family history. She and her husband, Nabil, started their journey as high school sweethearts 25 years ago in Meknes. Together they attended University of South Florida in Clearwater, Schiller University, and University of Nevada in Las Vegas where they received degrees in Hotel Administration, Hospitality, and International Business. Their oldest child was born in Clearwater, the other three in Las Vegas.

They returned to Morocco and in 2005 opened Kosybar. Of her staff, she said, “We’re family.”

On the square beneath, workmen continuing renovation.

She also shared local history. The previous owner of the riad which is now Kosybar was a Jewish clockmaker. Moroccan kings have always protected Jewish residents and many pilgrimages are made here to burial sites of their saints. Many of the Jewish houses had tunnels under the city to the palace in case of attack. One of the many things I appreciate about Morocco is its historic and present tolerance of the religions of foreigners. In the Marrakesh Mellah, one of several Jewish communities in Morocco, Jewish and Muslim merchants work alongside one another. Brigitte said of her childhood: “My dad was French, and my mom was Moroccan. Her best friend was Jewish. We all grew up together.”

I remembered on the first tour I took of Marrakesh our guide began at the spice shop just across the street (below). I couldn’t believe how bright and shiny the neighborhood was compared to when I first visited—dust, exhaust fumes, and years of use washed and refinished.

Dar Beija, a boutique bed and breakfast riad

Riad rooftop with a panoramic view of the Marrakesh Medina–palaces, sanctuaries, and the Atlas Mountains

Thank you, lovely ladies, for the pleasure of good company and conversation. Truly it was an afternoon of pure peace.

Sofitel Agadir Offers Solo Travelers Beauty and Bliss

November 27, 2015November 27, 2015Cindy McCain

Recently I stayed at 5-star Sofitel Agadir Thalassa Sea & Spa, just named continental winner of “Luxury Wedding Destination in Africa” by the 2015 Luxury Hotel Awards. My time there was perfection. Though I endorse travel for all, I especially encourage single women waiting for a prince to live happily-after-after to find your bliss now at places that will make your dreams come true. At the premier hotel on beautiful Agadir Bay you don’t have to be on a honeymoon to be pampered like a new bride. In fact, any lady here will be given princess treatment.

When I moved to Marrakech to write, teach English, and travel, I began asking students where their families stay when vacationing. The answer was always the same.

In Paris? Sofitel. London? Sofitel. Rome? Sofitel. Morocco? Sofitel.

Such big brand loyalty (120 hotels on five continents in 40 countries) in the age of hip default to indie companies got my attention. But then again, I’ve always appreciated timeless, classic quality.

The French company committed to total well-being first opened its doors in Strasbourg in 1964. Dedicated to superior service infused with the celebration of art de vivre, each hotel provides cultural experiences from not only France but also each host country in which it is located. Showcasing the best artwork, literature, music, fashion, architecture, gardens, fitness, wines and foods, the hotel beckons guests to experience the sweet life layer by delicious layer. Like bees burrowing gently into the rose— velvet petal by velvet petal—drinking nectar that will become honey in the hive, guests enter space after space of palpable beauty in interactions that feed the soul. Sofitel Agadir Thalassa Sea & Spa stimulates every sense—from plush decor to soothing sounds of fountains and sea to a signature scent, Jatamansi, found only in the Himalayas. Jatamansi, also known as “nard” smells of citrus, ylang ylang and mountains and has so many medicinal powers it is considered sacred in some countries. I left filled, relaxed, energized, healed.

But beyond all these offerings, what makes the Sofitel the Sofitel is the people who work here. From the moment I walked through the doors everyone–from doorman to gardener to manager — greeted me by name. I arrived feeling ill–a situation that could have been a nightmare when traveling alone–but I quickly learned I couldn’t have been in better hands. The staff offered to get me medicine and kindly brought me treats to feel better–Chamomile tea, sweets and fruit, two dozen roses. I am forever grateful for their professional, superior service. Rightfully called, the So Staff is the best in the business.

The new Sofitel Agadir Thalassa Sea & Spa greets guests with a 100 meter long Andalusian pond and 2,000 rose bushes.

Photo by Sofitel

I was welcomed at the door of La Maison Arabe, the reception area in a traditional riad with contemporary black and white design, and served mint tea and Moroccan cookies while the staff checked me in.

Maison Arabe - SOFITEL AGADIR THALASSA SEA&SPA (18) copy — Photo by Sofitel

Designer Didier Rey said of the collaboration of building this modern classic, “We had some great interaction with Moroccan artisans. Here I find the pleasure of working in simplicity as it was 20 years ago in France.”

In the gallery on display were thirty works by Younes Fizazi in a collection called “Moroccans Landscapes, Richness and Diversity.” Shots of the Atlas Mountains and Merzouga desert allowed me to relive great trips taken last fall and spring, but having just arrived from the surf town of Taghazout , I especially loved this photograph.

I was excited to see the pool and beach areas next. So Gorgeous.

The spacious suite was sumptuous, and I was especially thrilled with my three favorite elements — the terrace, bed, and bathtub (something I miss most in my Marrakech apartment). This one offered the best of both worlds–a soak with a view–so first on my agenda was a bubble bath followed by a massage.

Prestige Suite - Sofitel Agadir Thalassa sea & spa (2) — Prestige Suite Photo by Sofitel

View of pool and ocean from outdoor lounge

Prestige Suite - Sofitel Agadir Thalassa sea & spa (11) — Photo by Sofitel

My only complaint was the Sofitel MyBed which abducted me –a custom made mattress, featherbed, down duvet, and sleek, soft sheets. After my massage, I took a nap and slept for hours. 🙂

Sofitel Agadir Thalassa sea & spa (Institute) (1) — “Evasion et beaute Berbere” (Berber Escape and Beauty) treats the skin to Argan, prickly pear cactus, orange blossom water, rose water and honey. After treatments one can lounge overlooking Agadir Bay and sip herb or fruit drinks. Photo by Sofitel

Palais du Jardin (Moroccan Restaurant) SOFITEL AGADIR THALASSA SEA&SPA (5) — Les Palais du Jardin, the gourmet restaurant where Chef Fatima cooks Moroccan cuisine fusing traditional and modern flavors. Photo by Sofitel

At L’Amane Bar fresh fruit smoothies, classic cocktails, and a jazz duo can be enjoyed every night from 7:30 PM.

Day 2 I rose early feeling great and ready for breakfast on the terrace of L’Atlantique.

After breakfast I went to play in the next door neighbor’s backyard–Sofitel Agadir Royal Bay, recipient of “Luxury Beach Resort in Morocco” by the 2015 Luxury Hotel Awards. Of its many distinctions, Sofitel Morocco was selected to host the first Kids’ Villa offering educational programs, pastry classes, belly dance, gardening workshops, swimming, aerobics, and a library for children. The honor was bestowed because The Little Prince was born in the imagination of Antoine de Saint Exupery in Morocco.

Opened in 2004, the Sofitel Agadir Royal Bay Resort was the first hotel brand in Agadir. A contemporary Kasbah, its colors are warm copper, wood, and orange, the emblem of the Souss Valley symbolic of fire representing Berber hospitality.

Six duplex villas with infinity pools overlook the ocean.

SO LOUNGE AGADIR (20) — The So Lounge is the center of nightlife in Agadir and a great place for the Birthday Girl.

A winter holiday destination that offers sun- by- day and fire- by- night, Sofitel invites reflecting on the past year and dreaming of the one to come. Photo by Sofitel

Agadir, “Pearl of the South,” is a three-hour flight from major European cities. It’s where Europe migrates in winter to enjoy 300 days of sunshine each year and the Sofitel experience– timeless as Coco Chanel, delicious as Crème brûlée, and exotic as only Morocco.

Special thanks to Sofitel and Soukaina Ghallab for an unforgettable experience. As always, the opinions are my own.

My Nashville

August 18, 2015February 9, 2018Cindy McCain

Roots and wings. Nashville has and is (for me) both. This progressive place with a legendary past is the 7^th fastest growing city in the US. Friends told me of new restaurants and music venues, of more traffic in the year I was away, but I was still surprised by all the change.

Growing up in Kentucky, I romanticized Nashville and its icons. As a six-year-old in the ‘60s my “imaginary friend” was an imaginary husband—Elvis—and I still remember watching the Johnny Cash Show with my dad on Friday nights long before I’d go to concerts at The Ryman where it was taped. Walk the Line is one of my favorite movies—a love story of a Bad Boy reformed by a woman, her family, and faith. When asked for his definition of Paradise, Johnny said of June Carter Cash, “This morning, with her, having coffee.”

If you are fans of Elvis and Johnny, too, local artist Cindy David’s guitar pick earrings are my pick for cool souvenirs/ gifts. She sells them at festivals and gift shops (Nashville Airport, Frist Center, Omni Hotel, Nashville Symphony, and Cheekwood), or you can contact her at CindyDavid.com. I brought back a pair for Johnny.

When writing in Nashville for Examiner and Hispanic Nashville.com , I highlighted local events that defy Music City being put in a box—

performances at the Nashville Symphony, TPAC, Nashville Ballet, Vanderbilt Presents, and Nashville Film Fest. I also appreciate all that once defined Nashville–putting the town on the map–like live music on stages at the Ryman, the Bluebird, Grand Ole Opry, Bridgestone, BB King’s…in bars on Broadway, Demonbreun, and Nolensville Road…and at outdoor events from Ascend Amphitheater to Chukkers for Charity. Today Nashvegas, Buckle of the Bible Belt, a community as diverse as sweet tea and Jack Daniel whiskey, brims with tradition and progression; local, global, and local-gone-global happenings receiving Presidential recognition. Nashville is a place offering something for everyone explaining its popularity as a tourist destination and place to live.

Hatch print — Legend-upon-legend, Hatch Print, Nashville

Moviemaker Alberto Fuguet was also drawn to Music City. While Artist-in-Residence at Vanderbilt University, he wrote and filmed Musica Campesina. The film explores the immigrant experience of Tazo, a Chilean who comes to Nashville seeking a career in country music. In a scene with the lead (played by Pablo Cerda) I’m a desperate housewife who offers him iced tea but serves Jack Daniel. Fuguet described Tazo as a “fish out of water” which I better understand now living in a different culture. Many days I feel like a mermaid in Marrakesh.

My month at home went too fast to see all the new places I wanted to explore and visit all my old haunts. Below Taylor, Cole, and I played tourist downtown on 2nd Avenue and Broadway. Acme Feed and Seed has live music, reasonably priced food and a rooftop for taking photos.

Johnny Cash and Billy Graham, most famous preacher of my time. I still remember my Mama Lou watching his Crusades.

Also on Broad is the Frist Center. We celebrated a Big Birthday of my friend, Cheryl, there where The Long Players had people dancing in the grass under the light of a big, blue moon.

11840364_10207884343813323_428915226_o — Emily, far right, is our pro photographer and grabbed great shots and footage of that night. Today is HER birthday. Happy Birthday, Em!

11831448_10207885048950951_1344375663_o — Loved the Birthday Dinner at Cheryl’s pick, Adele’s–fun new restaurant in the Gulch.

Below is the video Emily made celebrating Cheryl’s 60th Birthday and what a “Young American” looks and acts like. Also check out travel videos from Emily’s adventures on her Vimeo station, My Open Road.

Nashville is a dancing place. On my 40th birthday I was doing country line dance with my sister and friends at the Wildhorse Saloon. Since my 50th I salsa. It was so good to get back to Suzy Wong’s House of Yum to fuel up for lemon drops and Asian Wonton Nachos, then do “Free Dance Wednesday” where Tonya Miller still faithfully hosts Salsa Night weekly at Play.

Though there are so many places to go, things to do, food to eat, I have to wrap up because I’m getting homesick. For a fix of Italy I love Bella Napoli near Belmont or Coco’s Italian Market in West Nashville. Urban Grub on 12th South has oysters and great grits. And in my neck-of-the-woods, there’s the Hip Donelson Farmers Market for home-cooking-for real like the spread my sister and brother-in-law made for my farewell dinner.

I went to McNamara’s, named “One of the Best Irish Pubs in America,” with my friend, Theresa, then Cole while home for the corned beef and cabbage and band, Nosey Flynn. For lighter fare there’s Phat Bites‘ Chinese Chicken Salad, Broccoli Salad, and Greek Salad and Cinco de Mayo in Hermitage and Old Hickory for a reward after a long walk on the Greenway or just because.

Finally, events I miss most in Nashville are Fall Festivals. Hope you can make one or all!

Italian Lights

Wine on the River

Oktoberfest

Southern Festival of Books

Celebrate Nashville

Cheekwood Fall Festival

A music mix that’s Nashville…

Gone South…to Franklin

August 11, 2015October 25, 2016Cindy McCain

We drove the Tennessee backroad to The Loveless Café from Franklin where Taylor, Cole and I stayed twelve days in the home of friends, Kim and Andy. Switching places, they went abroad while I stayed home with their cat and three dogs. As much as I love back roads, I adore back yards with big porches to grill and chill. Theirs backs up to woods.

I loved walking the dogs early in the morning, sprinklers hissing as we passed. Off trail, cicadas’ cries crescendoed when we waded through tall, dewy weeds to the Harpeth River rocks. After breakfast, I’d pick tomatoes, mint, and basil to make salsa, guacamole, and BLTs for lunch. Cole would play a game of fetch with Wrangler, Ella, and Ollie.

At night we caught up on movies. I’d vowed when I got home I’d disappear into a theater for at least a week. Other than Die Hard shown in the square during the Marrakesh Film Fest I hadn’t seen a single new movie on the Big Screen for an entire year AND when the sound on my airplane screen was broken on the way home, I nearly wept. But Andy and Kim’s Dish like my sister and brother-in-law’s cable had so many choices the only movie I wanted to see in a theater was Jurassic World.

We also ate our way through America’s “Favorite Main Street,” “Friendliest Town” (Travel and Leisure), and “Best Southern Town” (Garden and Gun). Check out all Franklin offers here. We went to Puckett’s Boat House for live music, catfish and oysters like the ones I’d had there in 2013. (55South on Main also has great fresh oysters; I had them there on Kim and Andy’s wedding day.)

Before Kim went to Europe she took me to Gray’s where we caught up over cocktails and dinner. Dating back to 1876, the former pharmacy now social and music hub has a rich history.

Family friends/retired teachers/travel buddies from Nashville, Betty and Sharon, drove down to visit. Starting in 1992 they taught me how to lead school groups on educational trips abroad. We still laugh about the tiny room we shared in England at Hotel Lily. We had to climb over triple beds to enter or exit. They took me to Henpeck Village Market—a meat and three with a great patio and pecan pie to die for.

Turnip Greens, Mashed Potato, Biscuit, Pinto Beans, Fried Okra

On the weekend, Heather, my Destin and Charleston travel partner and former coworker/student and I checked out the English pub, Bunganut Pig where a rocking band played to a full house.

Garcia’s Mexican Restaurant was my son’s find. Great choice! (Mexican food is the cuisine I miss most in Marrakesh. Moroccan friends, if it’s out there, please let me know where.)

I’m thankful for all the good food in Williamson County, but best of all, I loved cooking for my family and sleeping under the same roof again.

IMG_8121 (1) — Guacamole, salsa, spinach and artichoke dip

I've always loved the Parisian photograph by Cyndi Williams (right) and the Arabian artwork. With Kim in Paris and me in Morocco, art imitates life at the moment. — I’ve always loved the Parisian photograph by Cyndi Williams (right) and the Arabian artwork (center). With Kim in Paris during our stay and me living in Morocco, art imitates life.

We didn’t know we’d lose Precious, our 18-year old Persian, just a week before pet sitting for Kim and Andy. Being with their cat, Jet, and the other babies was good for us all.

And as we did after first moving to Nashville, before we had children, my sister drove down on her day off to Franklin, and we popped into shops along Main. Our only regret was not getting into Merridee’s Breadbasket Bakery. Next time.

We loved Philanthropy for its clothes, decor, and cause.

My sister, Penny, and I loved Philanthropy. — Love my sis

The Iron Gate has been a favorite home haven for years.

Vintage Jolie

On the cover, Mint Juleps, official drink of The Kentucky Derby

Yarrow Acres

Avec Moi

Ina’s not southern, but she’s my favorite chef on my favorite channel, Food Network.

Reminds me of the broaches my Mama Lou and Mama Sargeant wore. (“Mama” is Southern-Speak for “Grandmother.”)

Finnleys

Come on Down…

There’s so much more to see and do. The first Friday of each month, catch the Franklin Art Scene, a free, monthly art crawl. Other Franklin Festivals for 2015-16 are found here and Franklin Theater’s attractions are here. If in Franklin or passing through December 12-13, Franklin’s Dickens of a Christmas is a must-do for winter as is Arrington Vineyards for warmer weather.

Want to stay awhile?

Do you prefer staying in a home over a hotel? Don’t have friends in Franklin with whom you can stay? Do you love taking care of pets and a home? On rover.com and care.com those with strong profiles can find assignments as caretakers. Or if wanting to start your search for a “down home” rental south of Nashville, check AirBnB here.

Tennessee Backroads…Natchez Trace and Loveless Cafe

August 9, 2015January 16, 2018Cindy McCain

My life is a Tale of Two Cities…both tourist towns. At Nashville’s center, 2nd Avenue, I rubbed shoulders this summer with girl gangs in shorts and boots out for barbecue and beer. In Marrakesh’s marketplace, Jemaa el Fna, I rub shoulders with girl groups in harem pants and sandals out for a bargain and mint tea. But sometimes the best stuff is found on country (or desert) backroads.

Though Sundays when I was growing up and picnics with my kids meant fried chicken, the last few years I’ve rarely eaten anything fried. But when on my layover in Madrid on the way to Tennessee I almost opted for KFC (Kentucky Fried Chicken) over a tapas bar, I knew it was time to go home. I missed biscuits and gravy. And like I said in my first Southern Girl Gone Home post, I dreamed one night of bacon. I’ve never eaten country ham other than at Christmas, but I couldn’t wait to taste it again. While home I porked out—literally–particularly at a place considered a national treasure. I’m ashamed to say I have been in Nashville since 1987 and never made the trip to the Loveless Café. Since only home for a month, I decided to check out the place People Magazine says the country ham is “the best in America” and USA Today calls “the real McCoy of Southern cooking,” Bon Appetit gushed, “On a scale of 1 to 10, my breakfast came in at about a 14,” and Martha Stewart crooned, “It was the best breakfast I’ve ever had.” And, of course, there’s the wall of fame– country music legends making claiming the food is iconic.

The Loveless began as a private home hangout in the 40s where folks gathered in the living room and danced on the hardwood floor. By 1951 Lon and Annie Loveless were serving chicken and biscuits to travelers on Highway 100 from their front door; they then added 14 motel rooms. The rest of their history is here and check out their world-famous “Biscuit Lady,” Carol Fay Ellison making biscuits on the Today Show.

When Taylor, Cole and I were told the wait was an hour and forty minutes, we almost bolted, but I’m so glad we didn’t. We waited only and hour and I was a little disappointed because I was having a great conversation in the Shimai gift shop with owner Becca Ganick. She loves meeting people from all over the world who stop by. The restaurant is open 7 AM-9 PM Monday-Friday. We were there on a Friday at prime lunch time; to beat the crowds it’s recommended to visit Monday-Thursday 7-9am, after 2pm or before 6pm. Or stop in on a road trip on the Natchez Trace as I hope to do next time. To plan it, festivals, sites, and Bed and Breakfasts along the way are listed here. It’s amazing what you can learn on backroads.

We did breakfast at lunch time (so Taylor and I tried the Blue Moon Cocktail–there actually WAS a blue moon when I was home) but you can get lunch or supper as well. See menu here.

While Taylor and I had breakfast, Cole chose a dinner classic--meatloaf. — While Taylor and I had breakfast, Cole chose a dinner classic–meatloaf.

Be sure to try the GRITS–even if you aren’t a “Girl Raised in the South.” And after the biscuits, you may want to pick up a package of their biscuit mix. I hauled mine back to Morocco…if only I could have brought the ham, too. And if you want to try one of their recipes, I recommend the Fruit Tea Punch–especially those of you who drink only hot tea because In the south, “sweet tea” on ice is a staple, Banana Pudding with Homemade Wafers (especially if you don’t have “store-bought” wafers), Loveless Pecan Pie, or their signature Elvis Pie. And please, all you southern cooks, leave your favorite variations and other favorite recipes in the comments for Yankees ( people from “up north” or anywhere not southern US) to try.

Shelling beans by the bird dog over sweet tea…my mom tells the story of my dad buying a bird dog, Queenie, with an entire week’s pay when she was expecting me. Later he bought another one, Ben Hur.

Luxury Tent Experience…Camping in the Country

June 17, 2015February 10, 2020Cindy McCain

Whispers within as lanterns flicker, casting silhouettes on white canvas. Stars without, winking from an ebony sky at the palm grove beneath. All is silent but green leather leaves rustling in a restless breeze.

Since I was a child, Hollywood has fueled my love affair with tents. Though Tarzan never slept in one, the adventurous women on African safaris did. So did leading ladies in my favorite romantic movies–Beyond Borders, The English Patient, Lawrence of Arabia. At Manzil La Tortue my adult fantasy of nomadic nesting made chic by sheiks was finally fulfilled. Merging my love for camping and country (Dad’s only idea of vacation involved a campfire, and our grandparents took us every Sunday to visit relatives on farms), my stay at this rural retreat was heaven. As Paula (see video below) said after welcoming me with mint tea, “This is our own little piece of paradise.” I’m so grateful they shared it with me.

I had booked a Sunday pool and lunch day with friends the weekend before. My fish was delicious, the molten chocolate cake amazing, and the pool was perfect.

I couldn’t wait to return for a weekend stay when I’d wander and photograph the property. When I arrived last Saturday with my friend, Jasna, who photographed me for this post, Paula walked us past the herb gardens. Outside our tent we could smell the orange and lime trees, but the breeze also carried mint, thyme, lavender, rosemary, and scented geranium which reminded me of home.

As we passed the hen house I thought of my cousin, Sonjia, who showed my sister, Penny, and me how to gather eggs. I remembered my cousin, Brock, who showed prize rabbits as we passed the thatched area where bunnies were munching on breakfast.

We passed through a gate to a private area where our tent awaited. I hadn’t looked online to see if because I wanted to be surprised. My mind flashed back to last fall when my friend, Monica, and I rode camels to a campsite in the Sahara Desert. I had expected a white canopy cloud blowing in the instead. Instead our guide disappeared to fetch dinner so we stumbled by the light of my phone into a pitch-black tarp where we slept on 2- inch burlap mattresses tossed on the sand.

As I walked inside, I was stunned. By contrast, Manzil La Tortue provided so much more than I expected… glamping at its finest.

Tour the deluxe Koutoubia tent in the video below– an immense 61 square meters/656 square feet. Waking up to morning light illuminating the colorful canopy was as delightful as falling asleep to the wind’s breath causing the canvas to rise and fall.

The rest of the weekend I felt like a kid again in my own secret garden.

As a Southern girl who values beauty breaks in bucolic settings and family, I love that this peaceful place is owned and run by a team of great people: Fouad Housni and his wife Meriame, manager of two companies, Unitours Moroc and Morocco My Way, providing excursions for guests; Fouad’s mother, Paula; and two adorable girls, Lina and Salma. I enjoyed hearing Paula’s romantic story (video below) of passing through Casablanca in 1970 headed to Canada but never making it. She moved to Marrakesh with Fouad in 1981.

Tents of many sizes are available as are rooms in the villa or even “camper cars” for those who want to rough it.

Breakfast is included, and half board and full board is also available for lunch and dinner. As a mom who grilled nightly on my deck in Tennessee and a girl whose dad grilled on every camping trip in Kentucky, I was excited to try their specialty, Planchas, plates of food grilled by guests at the table. Not quite sure what to do with so many olive oils and spices, I was assisted by Brahim, the waiter, then Chef Abdelhaq, who showed me how it is properly done. From Abdessamad, pool tech and security, to Naima who served breakfast, the staff made us feel welcome.

Beef fillet with mashed potatoes, apples, and apricots

Marrakesh is a frenetic place–a speedway of honking taxis and zooming motorbikes. Malls and even grocery stores blare “disco” music, and at my last pool in the Palms, the speakers that hung over every lounge chair vibrated from a DJ who made relaxation impossible. Sometimes we need wide, open spaces…especially when the road ends here. Fouad can assist with transportation.

Manzil La Tortue, thankfully, is a No Noise Zone. All I heard were brilliant blue birds singing; fat, white doves cooing; and hens clucking. Whether your “tent thing” is Gatsby, Game of Thrones, or a childhood version in the backyard, here you can play.

Lina and Salma watching a child’s program on a tablet

For the Manzil La Tortue picture gallery, go here.

Thank you, Manzil La Tortue, for a wonderful experience!

Discovering Costa Brava’s Bounty: Part III

May 23, 2015March 18, 2019Cindy McCain

Catalan cuisine is something to celebrate. Below are two must-eat restaurants of Costa Brava.

Marc Genes of Visit Emporda and Alba Plana of Costa Brava Tourist Board introduced my group of travel bloggers to locals excited to share their tables brimming with goodness. Outside the Museu de la Mediterrania we sampled raw and cured sausages prepared as they were in the 14th century; brunyols, fried, sugared dough similar to beignets; local apples, bread, tomatoes, and wine.

Our one day in L’Estartit meant sink or swim to manage two big events– snorkeling the Medes Islands and a meal. Why we all didn’t sink after lunch at La Gaviota is a mystery. Located beachfront, it was my favorite restaurant of the eight delicious days I spent feasting on Costa Brava. From Lloret de Mar through the Baix Empordà region, nature’s bounty of foods locally grown and freshly caught made tasting experiences simply exquisite.

La Gaviota. L’Estartit

Restaurant La Gaviota in L'Estartit — Restaurant La Gaviota in L’Estartit

Deciding from all the choices was difficult.

Seafood lovers, this Poulpe a la galicienne (Octopus Galician style) is the best dish I’ve ever had. It could have easily been my meal rather than the starter.

Ratafia ice cream…Ratafia is a liqueur of lemons, nutmeg, cinnamon, clove, mint, rosemary, and anise.

Whiskey frozen cake (Tarte galcee au whisky)–as a Kentucky/Tennessee girl I couldn’t resist.

This wine (below) was wonderful.

Even the water was stylish.

Thanks to the staff and our gracious host. owner Lluis Pigem.

Antic Casino, Pals, Emporda

South of L’Estartit was the most beautiful restaurant of the tour, a once-casino and terrace under a magnolia tree that reminded me of home. The presentation of starters; their signature dish, Pals rice casserole; and the best macaroon dessert I’ve ever had relaxed us so much after a bike ride we needed a double expresso to continue our journey.

Nice wine , fun friends

Classy food, classic place

We wondered if this was the casino’s safe in bygone days

Scallops with cream of leek and truffle oil

Rice casserole made with local rice and seafood

A fine finish…hazelenut and raspberry praline macaroon with Ferrero Rocher ice cream

To Russia and Rick in Casa

February 24, 2015August 12, 2015Cindy McCain

“Play it again, Sam…”

Like Tom Cruise I’d been sent on a mission. Anxiety, however, made me fancy myself more like Frodo. I was to go to Casablanca on a workday to the Russian Consulate to pick up a dozen passports/visas. I opted to take a Sam—my friend, Kate–in search of Russia and another Sam at Rick’s cafe on the Moroccan coast.

The plan is I will go in March with the Model United Nations team to competition in St. Petersburg. We will leave on my birthday. I’d filled out pages of questions—even information on my parents and ex—to get clearance. I just hoped I’d navigate the trains to Casa and back, the 8-stop tram ride in between, and, most importantly, find the Russians and fetch the documents with no problems.

At 6 AM sharp Ismail, my go-to driver for can’t- miss plane, train, and bus departures, texted: “Good Morning, Cindy. I’m downstairs.” Kate was at the station, and we boarded the train at 6:45 and found our first class compartment with four other passengers.

I’d been to Casa once when my plane first landed in Africa last August. I was picked up by a driver and the trek to Marrakesh was barren and brown–dirt cracked open all the way. I hadn’t been out of the city since winter rains turned the landscape green. On the three- hour trip last Thursday, I looked out the window on what seemed to be England‘s green, rolling hills.

The tram stop was just across the street from the station and, as on the train, we were the only non-Moroccans who boarded. Though we walked a block too far and couldn’t find our Russian destination, a nice, older couple in a new BMW, seeing we were lost in their neighborhood, offered to drive us to the front gate. In front of a single garage-sized door, the guard asked for my ID and welcomed us in.

While I packed passports in my purse, Kate gave travel tips to a Flemish couple who live in the resort area of Marrakesh. They were getting visas to visit St. Petersburg for their twentieth wedding anniversary.

Mission accomplished, we left the Russian Embassy and headed across town to the iconic Rick’s Cafe, owned by a former US Embassy diplomat, Kathy Kriger. The service and setting–we sat by “Sam’s piano” as 40s music played sipping a martini and cocktail in old-world style-were legend-worthy.

The Obama Family Chili was listed alongside Rick’s Special (Hamburger and Fries)

Never thought I’d pick Rick’s Special over lamb chops, but a good hamburger is now hard to find.

Glace, French for ice cream, is high on most menus.

We walked to the Hassan II Mosque, the largest mosque in Africa and the 7th largest in the world. It’s minaret is the world’s tallest at 210 metres–60 stories high. Below school children on field trips ran and played on the plaza, some singing soccer songs and others asking us to pose with them in “selfies.” Non-Muslims can tour in groups unlike the mosques in Marrakesh, but we had a 4:45 train to catch. Still, in just six hours in the city, we made memories–ending our adventure admiring immense Moorish architecture on a windy wall and crashing sea.

Cupid Crawl from Riad Mur Akush to La Maison Arabe

February 17, 2015November 12, 2018Cindy McCain

Each day for six months has been nothing but new. My only constant has been change. Even traditions–Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Eve—were celebrated in first-ever ways. St. Valentine’s Day 2015 I climbed with friends to a riad rooftop supported by 300-year-old walls. New chums encircled by the snowy Atlas Mountains, we sat sleeveless on a sunny summit above the Marrakech Medina. Good company, fabulous food, pure peace.

My friend, Kate, was our hostess for lunch at Riad Mur Akush which she manages. New to Morocco, too, she moved here from Melbourne. I met her and Maria, the English owner, at an InterNations mixer last fall. Kate had flown from an empty nest and we meet regularly to share stories of our second acts. This time, rather than meeting for dinner at a restaurant in our neighborhood, I asked if we could do lunch at her workplace. I love riads–traditional Moroccan houses or palaces. For privacy, rooms open to interior gardens or courtyards with flowing fountains or tiled pools. Most of the riads serve meals only to guests, so I knew friends would love to spend an afternoon in such a pretty place.

Always about beauty breaks and exploration, I added: “Maybe we could visit other riads, too?”

She loved the idea and made it happen. “We could do a Riad Crawl like the pub crawls in Australia! I’ll speak to our cook and get back with you on a menu.”

And with that, what we hope to make a new tradition began. Since she had a full house for the holiday, she said we’d start small on the roof. Later when too hot to be up there, we’d move downstairs to accommodate more.

I’ll be interviewing Kate soon on her reinvention and our meal—a fusion of Moroccan and Australian cuisine. Some left with plans to book family who visit; some to take a stay-cation there themselves. All needed Cupid’s wings because we were too full to walk home. But we had a second stop, Le Maison Arabe, the oldest and largest riad/boutique hotel in the Medina where Kate had arranged for us a tour and coffee.

We were greeted by their friendly staff, the sounds of fountains draining into the pool, the smell of cedar, and the feel of a 1940s jazz club. Some plan to try their cooking classes and others their spa which, unlike wellness centers in many riads, is open to the public.

Thanks, Kate, Riad Mur Akush, and La Maison Arabe for sharing the love on February 14th with seven newcomers to Marrakech.