48 Hours of Marrakesh Magic

48 Hours of Marrakesh Magic

Updated on May 7, 2023

Traveling in the company of those we love is home in motion.

— Leigh Hunt, English Romantic poet and critic

I adore Europe, but it turns out after living two years in Morocco,  that Africa is my second home.  I found more beauty, adventure, and relationships (especially in Marrakesh) — the three things I seek most in life —than I ever imagined.  Sharing this place with my children, my friend, Moni, and former students was a privilege I’ll never forget.  Likewise,  I was thrilled when my niece, Emily, and Andres stopped by for a couple of days after Emily’s work trip to Turkey and some time in Italy. If you’re in Europe and want a taste of Morocco, 48 hours in Marrakesh can be an unforgettable experience. 

For $45- $100 roundtrip on RyanAir, you can fly to Marrakesh from Milan, Rome, Paris, Madrid, Barcelona, London, and many other European cities.  (Arriving on a one-way ticket from one European city, then departing to another is a way to see more,  but note that you will pay for all baggage above the size of the smaller-that-standard carryon allowed for free.) If you have the time, in Marrakesh you can relax by pools at regal resorts and riads (many featured on this blog), take cooking classes, or volunteer.  You can also do excursions to  Essaouira, the Atlas Mountains, the Sahara Desert, Chefchouen, Agadir, or Casablanca.  But even if you have only two days, the trip is worth it because you will definitely experience some Marrakesh magic.

Here’s what these two did with 48 hours in Marrakesh …

Andres, Cindy, and Emily at Marrakesh airport
Andres and Emily made a quick trip from Italy to visit me in Marrakesh. For an expat, nothing is better than when family stops by!

Arrival Day

After dropping off bags at my apartment, we were joined by my artist friend, Jon, who walked with us to the medina where we had lunch at my favorite daytime restaurant with a rooftop view of the Koutoubia Mosque.

The Koutoubia Mosque in Marrakech
The Koutoubia Mosque, located in Marrakesh’s Djemaa el Fna Square, is the largest mosque in Marrakesh, Morocco.

Emily is a textile designer, so our first mission was checking out intricate tile patterns and woodwork  and shopping.

The Ensemble Artisanal (see gorgeous entrance below) sets the standard for the highest authentic, quality goods made by the superior local artisans selected to work there.  Here you can see them working and teaching apprentices, and it’s a great place to check out fair pricing before bargaining in the souks.

Emily Salgado and Cindy McCain at Artisinal Ensembel Marrakesh
The entrance of the Artisianl Ensemble is a popular photo opp. Here you can find fair prices for Moroccan-made goods and know that what you buy goes to the artists.
Artisinale Ensemble
Emily and Andres Salgado
Emily is a textile designer. She has traveled to India, China, Turkey, and many other locations for inspiration, something Marrakesh is known for.
Emily Salgado, a textile designer, purchased goods at the Marrakesh Artisinale Ensemble.
The workmanship here is top quality.

El Badi Palace

Giant storks greeted us as we entered the remains of El Badi Palace.  Began in 1578 by Arab Saadian Sultan Ahmad al-Mansur, the complex, built with ransom money from the Portuguese after the Battle of the Three Kings, exhibits the architecture of the Saadian Period. For tour times and more information, go here.

storks at El Badi Palace Marrakesh
Storks make their home at El Badi Palace.
El Badi Palace
Two artists, Jon Womack, and Emily Salgoad, marvel at El Badi Palace ruins
El Badi Palace
El Badi Palace

Bahia Palace

My first official outing in Marrakesh was a tour organized by my school of the Jewish Quarter and Bahia Palace.  I never tire of its quiet, cool grandeur.

Emily Salgado takes photos at El Bahia palace
Intricate designs at El Bahia Palace
Emily Salgado at Bahia Palace
Andres Salgado takes photos of Emily.
Andres and Emily Salgado at El Bahia Palace
El Bahia Palace makes a dramatic backdrop for a beautiful couple.
souk shopping in Marrakesh
Photo by Jon Wommack
Shopping for a wedding blanket in souks of Marrakesh
We bargained later with Jon’s friend in the souks and then he served mint tea, two rites of passage.

Jemma el Fna Square

Andres Salgado at Jemma el Fna Square
Andres got a deal on a fez for his dad, and we had sodas and more mint tea while watching the snake charming below.
snake charmer at Jemma el Fna Square Marrakesh
I take my photos from the rooftop bar to avoid having a snake draped around my neck.
snake charmers at Jemma el Fna Square
Watch where you step!
snakes at El Jemma el Fna Square
Tourists and locals gather to see the snakes.
Andres and Emily Salgado at Cindy McCain's Moroccan apartment
Too tired to go out, we ordered in the first night.  Seeing these two smiling on my couch made me happy.

Full Day

On their only full day during their 48 hours in Marrakesh, they got up early for two must-sees, Jardin Marjorelle

Jardin Majorelle
Jardin Majorelle is a must-see, must-get-photos iconic landmark in Marrakesh.

and Ben Youseff Madrasa,  visual feasts,  did some more souk shopping, and had  massages and hammams, Marrakesh’s signature pleasure.   We celebrated our last night together at Pepe Nero, former palace of the “Lord of the Atlas.”

Emily and Andres Salgado at Pepe Nero
Emily and Andres Salgado at Pepe Nero
Pepe Nero
Emily took a photos from the second-story apartments at Pepe Nero.
Server pouring tea at Pepe Nero
Our server was great. Here he is pouring tea the Moroccan way at Pepe Nero.
IMG_9832
Emily Salgado at Pepe Nero

Cindy McCain with Emily and Andres Salgado at Pepe Nero

Departure

No trip to Marrakesh is complete without hanging out with local friends at a riad, the traditional style of home in which all doors and windows open to an inner courtyard with a fountain and/or pool.   My friend, Kate, arranged a riad rooftop breakfast for us at the location she managed,  Riad Mur AKush.  The November weather was perfect for a panoramic view of the medina. Mustafa’s morning music ended their 48 hours in Marrakesh on a high note.

Breakfast at Riad Mur Akush Marrakesh
Breakfast at Riad Mur Akush Marrakesh
Mustapha plays music at Riad Mur Akush
Mustapha provides brunch music
Live music at Riad Mur Akush
Relaxing at Riad Mur Akush

Palmeraie Camel Ride

Though Emily and Andres had a 3 PM flight to catch, Ismail, my driver, hooked us up for an hour-long camel ride after breakfast in the Palmeraie on the way to the airport.   It was Andres’ first time on a camel, and he had a big time.  They felt the Marrakesh Magic, and having them there, was a double dose of magic for me, too.

Andres' first time on a camel in Marrakesh
Andres’ first time on a camel
Emily on a camel in Marrakesh
Southern Girl Gone Global Cindy McCain with Emily and Andres Salgado on camels in Marrakesh
Pepe Nero Marrakech is a unique, luxury experience. Photo by Emily Salgado

Pepe Nero Marrakech is The Place to Celebrate

Updated on April 25, 2023

Pepe Nero Pool Marrakesh Morocco
Brimming Beauty at Pepe Nero Marrakesh, Morocco

When my niece, Emily, and nephew, Andres, said they’d be visiting me in Morocco for 48 hours, I wanted a perfect place to take them for dinner. I sought somewhere signature Moroccan — mysterious, exotic, and beautiful. A place that practices hospitality and serves a mix of traditional local and European delicious dishes. Pepe Nero Marrakech granted every desire and more.

Mysterious…The night began with the thrill of intrigue.  Afraid I could never lead us through the medina, a medieval labyrinth of darkness, deserted streets, and closed shops at night, I was relieved that  Chahid Essafa, truly a Customer Service Extraordinaire, said he’d send a guide to escort us. Excited, we waited in front of Café de France, mesmerized by the lanterns glowing across Jemaa el Fna square. Behind us, a man in a black suit appeared.

Pepe Nero escorts guests to the restaurant by request.
Pepe Nero escorts guests to the restaurant by request.

He serenely introduced himself, turned, and led the way, shielding us from errant motorcyclists as we wound around corners and down solemn streets. Only our shadows and those of a few feral cats stretched up the red clay walls as we silently walked under lamplights. Though our destination was less than ten minutes away, adrenaline flowed from the surreal setting and suspense of wondering behind which wall our journey would end.

And then Emily and Andres experienced what I love about this city.  A desolate alleyway. A door swings open. Inside…paradise.

Pepe Nero Marrakesh
Pepe Nero is the former palace of Moroccan royalty.

Pepe Nero Marrakesh Morocco
Guests enjoy poolside dinner at Pepe Nero Marrakech. 

U.S. guests visit expat aunt at Pepe Nero Marrakesh
Cindy McCain with Marrakesh guests Emily and Andres Salgado.

Pepe Nero Marrakesh offers Italian and Moroccan cuisine in a former Pasha's palace.
Pepe Nero Marrakesh offers Italian and Moroccan cuisine in a former Pasha’s palace.

Beautiful…Carrara marble,  cedar ceilings, and Moorish fountains transport guests to another time.   We ate by the Andalusian pool flanked by flaming torches from a James Bond dream set. Trees reached for the moon—gorgeous that night—as we sat under the stars. Bougainvillea draped from the second-story balcony.

View from second floor apartments of Pepe Nero

Flowers cascade from second floor Pepe Nero apartments

Exotic… Pepe Nero Marrakech is the restaurant within Riyad Al Moussika, the former palace of “Lord of the Atlas,” Pasha of Marrakech from 1912-1956.  According to BBC, Thami El Giaoui at the time of his death “was the most powerful man in Morocco and one of the wealthiest men in the world.” Guests can rent one of six luxury suites overlooking the two lavish courtyards. Breakfast is served on the terrace rooftop overlooking the Atlas mountains.

Guest room at Pepe Nero Marrakesh
Guest room at Pepe Nero Marrakesh

Guest suite at Pepe Nero Marrakesh
Guest suite at Pepe Nero Marrakesh

Guest room at Pepe Nero Marrakesh
Bed fit for a queen at Pepe Nero Marrakesh where royalty lived.

Luxurious en suite bath at Pepe Nero
Luxurious en suite bath at Pepe Nero

Brimming beauty at Pepe Nero Marrakesh
Brimming beauty at Pepe Nero Marrakesh

Haute cuisine...Guests can choose from two menus—one Moroccan, one Italian–prepared by Mr. Khalid Essafa Robazza, Cordon Bleu Chef and owner.  We three went with Moroccan because When in Rome… (and Emily and Andres had just come from there).  We feasted on salads and Harira Soup (a tradition), then roasted leg of lamb, lamb tagine, and Pastilla di Piccione (pigeon pie–a local delicacy).  The waiters were attentive, kind, and patient as we toured the riad, Emily and I tag-teaming behind the camera.

Fresh orange juice welcome drinks at Pepe Nero
Welcomed with fresh orange drinks

Emily and Andres Salgado at Pepe Nero Marrakesh
Emily and Andres Salgado at Pepe Nero Marrakesh

Cindy McCain and Nephew Andres Salgado at Pepe Nero. Photo by Emily Salgado.
Cindy McCain and Nephew Andres Salgado at Pepe Nero. Photo by Emily Salgado.

Emily Salgado at Pepe Nero Marrakesh
Emily Salgado at Pepe Nero Marrakesh

Cindy McCain Southern Girl Gone Global at Pepe Nero Marrakesh
Thrilled to be celebrating life with family at Pepe Nero

Meal at Pepe Nero Marrakesh
Our starters at Pepe Nero Marrakesh

Lamb Tagine at Pepe Nero Marrakesh
Lamb Tagine

Roasted Shoulder of Lamb at Pepe Nero Marrakesh
Roasted Shoulder of Lamb

Cinnamon-glazed Pastilla at Pepe Nero
Cinnamon-glazed Pastilla
Server pouring mint tea Moroccan style at Pepe Nero
Our excellent server pouring mint tea Moroccan style at Pepe Nero

The food was so delicious, the dining experience so exceptional and the wine list so tempting, I returned the following week with my friend, Jasna, to try one dish off the Italian menu–lasagna that was the best I’ve had anywhere– so I could save room for dessert. As a Kentucky girl, I chose the Bourbon Vanilla Crème Brûlée with the crunch-cream topping–my new favorite dessert in all of Morocco. Pepe Nero provides complimentary cake for birthday parties.  It’s a five-star dining experience at affordable prices, and I’m already looking forward to the next celebration.

Lasagna at Pepe Nero Marrakesh
Lasagna at Pepe Nero Marrakesh

Best crème brulée of my life at Pepe Nero Marrakesh
Best crème brulée of my life at Pepe Nero Marrakesh

Cordon Bleu Chef/Owner Khalid Essafa Robazza  and Southern Girl Gone Global Cindy McCain at Pepe Nero
Pepe Nero Marrakesh Cordon Bleu Chef/Owner Khalid Essafa Robazza

Southern Girl Gone Global Cindy McCain with Pepe Nero Manager Manager Chahid Essafa
Gracious Manager Chahid Essafa

Southern Girl Gone Global Cindy McCain with Khalid, Member of Wonderful Waitstaff at Pepe Nero Marrakesh
Khalid, Member of Wonderful Waitstaff

Cindy McCain, Southern Girl Gone Global at Pepe Nero Marrakesh
Nights to remember at Pepe Nero Marrakesh